Maui?'s Makena Beach & Golf Resort has it all

Travel writers and longtime patrons have separate but equal reasons to be leery of news of hotel makeovers.

From the writers' perspective, the "multimillion-dollar renovation" often turns out to be a much-needed replacement of carpets, some fresh paint and the swapping out of old-school TVs for today's de rigueur flat-panels. Sure, the changes are nice and all, but they're basically scheduled maintenance wrapped up in a pretty press release. From the guests' point of view, full-scale remodeling may irreparably alter the very ambience that attracted them to return year after year ? or, if done successfully, may attract the masses to their once "secret" hideaway.

In the case of the former Maui Prince Hotel, now the Makena Beach & Golf Resort, both groups may find themselves pleasantly surprised. After being sold two years ago at a foreclosure auction for $55 million ? less than a tenth of what the owners had paid for it in 2007 ? the 1,800-acre property is finally emerging from its quiet cocoon with all the original beauty of its virtually end-of-the-road setting not only intact, but more inspiring than ever. Yet there are enough fresh touches among the resort's modern amenities and renewed commitments to the ancient cultural traditions in its midst to please the newshounds.

TVs are not only sleeker, carpets newer and beds firmer, but bathrooms are more luxurious and more contemporary Hawaiiana decorates walls and public spaces. Under executive chef Marc McDowell, virtually all produce is grown on site or nearby, all breads are made from scratch and seafood standards can be revelatory, such as seared ahi with a black cherry glaze and purple sweet potatoes, or seared mahimahi in a crust of cilantro stems, macadamia nuts, ginger, garlic and lime, served over red quinoa with lemongrass beurre blanc. (We each declared ours a winner.) As with room rates (with June specials starting at $229, including continental breakfast), the food prices here are noticeably less than at the tonier Wailea resorts just up the road.

The crowds are fewer too ? the 310-room resort, spa and beach hut are the only edifices on Maluaka Beach, where a catamaran can whisk you away to snorkel at Molokini without having to launch from busy Ma'alaea Harbor. The resort's knowledgeable beach boys also take guests on an outrigger canoe ride and a historical tour, after teaching you the proper Hawaiian names for the canoe and traditional protocol, including a chant, for entering the ocean.

Within a short drive or bike ride (the hotel has free rentals) are the historic sites of Keawala'i Congregational Church and Makena Landing, where cattle were forced to swim to Mainland-bound ships. In the other direction lie the popular beaches of Makena State Park, including an unofficial nude beach hidden in the crook of the cinder cone Pu'u Ola'i. Over Memorial Day weekend, we opted for the red-black sand of the park's Oneuli Beach, which had a half-dozen visitors, tops, enjoying views across the channel of Kaho'olawe and Molokini.

Since I'd asked to be notified when the resort updates were ready for prime time, and so sacrificed my usual anonymity, I was anxious to talk to repeat guests and first-time visitors who would not be suspected of getting special treatment. With the exception of one couple disappointed by the pool bar food ? though quite happy with the fare at the golf course's Cafe on the Green ? they seemed impressed by the wealth of space and scenery, even with the slightly dated architecture.

"This is like a mix of the Four Seasons (in Wailea) and the Sheraton Keauhou," noted Greg Colden of Kailua-Kona, previously a Bay Area resident. "And I'd rather being staying here instead of up the road."

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