Saturday, December 1, 2012

First time RTA. Thoughts and suggestions? - DIYMA Car Audio Forum


Old 1 Day Ago ? #1
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Ok. I don't even know if I'm doing this correctly. I started with it in real time but the "bars" or whatever they're called just move so fast and erratically that I couldn't really see what was going on. So I put it in "peak/hold" and just kept resetting it after changes.

Let me have it. I want honest opinions/suggestions.

Equipment-
Pioneer 80prs 2 way active front + sub
Dynaudio MW 162's in doors
JL C5's in factory sails
Tru Tech s44
Single 12" Tantric MD on an IA 20.1

Objectively- I'd be embarrassed to show what it looked like before adjustments. I tuned it by ear and the RTA looked like a meth addict's smile. I "thought" it was pretty good.

Subjectively- it's now better. I'm not great at the illustrative descriptions like y'all are but it's more dynamic now. Way more "airy?" Vocals are uhh... Easier to understand? The top end is way hotter than it was and its surprising how loud the sub had to be to blend. And strangely enough, even though 13 of the 16 bands are cut from 0db, it's "louder" now at similar HU volumes.

Crosses were 3.15khz @ 18db. Crosses now are woofer 80hz - pass. Tweets 4khz up. I know some of you don't like the full range woofer or think my points were wrong, but I tried a bunch of spots and it's just smoother and sounds better to me when the woofer is open.

Anyway... Here's the best I could get it. No matter what I did, I can not get that 600hz dip any closer to the other frequencies. Also, on peak/hold, there's a red bar at the peak frequency. I finally got it smooth enough to have no red bar at all. Even though its probably not all that smooth to y'all. Lol.

Not sure if its important, but I found this interesting. This is sub and woofers only sort of midway through the EQ'ing process. Surprising how much top end is in there.

And this is sub and tweeters only.

Thanks for looking. If you have any thoughts or suggestions, I'm all ears.


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Old 1 Day Ago ? #3
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Aha! See... That's why I posted here. Didn't even occur to me to try adjusting TA or polarity.

I did EQ left and right independently, but spent more time on simultaneous EQ. I didn't try each driver one at a time though.

Good tip. Thanks.


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Old 1 Day Ago ? #6
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Quote:

dont focus on dips. just cut peaks. flatten 200 to 4khz as much as possible without boosting dips. just cut peaks to flat

Even if it means leaving dips in the response?

I started with everything flat (0db) and basically tried to cut everything that had a peak. After I got all the peaks "flat", I started boosting any dips that I could affect.

Is this not how to do it? Am I just trying to tame peaks?


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Old 1 Day Ago ? #8
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Quote:

majority of nulls you will not hear unless you have a null in response over a broad frequency range.
you cant fix a null bc its the result of many different factors. could be cancellation, reflection, combination of several thing.
but you will hear peaks in the response
so just cut peaks, dont focus on any nulls.
those pics are far from flat as well

That's why I quotated "flat." You should have seen it before.

I'll keep that in mind and revisit tomorrow.

Thanks.


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Old 1 Day Ago ? #9
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I just want to play devils advocate to the rest of this forum (generally).

I spent $300 on getting a 0.5-1db flat 5hz-20khz RTA tuning setup and then tuned every which way I could find on this board and many others. I used anywhere from 1 band to 64 bands of EQ per active channel, did only peaks, did a full eq, did everything. It all sounded very fake and digital to me - I.E unnatural and just bad. I am not running bad gear either but I eventually just stuck with running a -6db 100hz-20khz dip for a little low end increase, that's it.

I am not a proponent of RTA anymore. Moving an inch left, right, front or back will dictate up to 10db difference in some frequencies because of reflections. It is essentially impossible to tune effectively. This is of course my opinion.


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Old 1 Day Ago ? #10
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Quote:

I just want to play devils advocate to the rest of this forum (generally).

I spent $300 on getting a 0.5-1db flat 5hz-20khz RTA tuning setup and then tuned every which way I could find on this board and many others. I used anywhere from 1 band to 64 bands of EQ per active channel, did only peaks, did a full eq, did everything. It all sounded very fake and digital to me - I.E unnatural and just bad. I am not running bad gear either but I eventually just stuck with running a -6db 100hz-20khz dip for a little low end increase, that's it.

I am not a proponent of RTA anymore. Moving an inch left, right, front or back will dictate up to 10db difference in some frequencies because of reflections. It is essentially impossible to tune effectively. This is of course my opinion.

flat from 5hz and up would sound like like IMO as well.
majority of people have a rising response from 160hz down to 20hz with 20hz typically being 10db or more above flat

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Old 1 Day Ago ? #12
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Quote:

Are you tuning using actual music? Or are you using pink noise? Also you might try sweeps in the passband of individual speakers once you venture to tuning them seperately.

Pink noise from the USACi SQ disk.

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Old 20 Hours Ago ? #13
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EQ is required in a car, no need to even argue about that. Imo, the more EQ you got the better it is. Not heard a single car that sounds realistic without using EQ. Keeping response flat ain't important, the important thing is to have the same response both left and right side. In IID range of our hearing, it's the intensity difference which determines localization (center focus/image). An equal amplitude between left and right are close to impossible to attain without EQ, cause the car's interior mess up the FR.

If it sounds bad with EQ applied then you doing it wrong. I have NEVER tuned a system which sounded better with no EQ applied. Never managed to make the system sound "processed" and "digital" either. Everything is just better.

As it has been said; Don't EQ dips, just bring down the peaks. Prioritize an equal amplitude between the sides over a flat response. Small peaks like 2-3dB isn't much of an issue. Try EQ so you have 10dB above reference between 20-100Hz with a gradual rolloff to 160Hz, after that "flat" to 2,5-3kHz and a 5-6dB rolloff to 20kHz. Mess with polarity before EQing.
You can sometimes bring down wide peaks with the crossovers, by separating xover frequencies between drivers. That actually works pretty good sometimes.

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Old 15 Hours Ago ? #17
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Auto tune never left me satisfied on my P99, it EQed the crap out of my midbass drivers and I didn't like it...

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Old 2 Hours Ago ? #21
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Quote:

I think we have steered this thread off corse a bit here. Sorry OP.

It's all good info. I'm soaking it up. Especially the part about Zapco DC's having EQ. I did not know this and I'm looking for a new 4 channel anyway.

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Source: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/140131-first-time-rta-thoughts-suggestions.html

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